6 June

The Broadwater to Tangalooma

We've had a perfect evening anchored here at Russell Island in the Broadwater.  Russell Island is inhabited, but it's almost impossible to see signs of civilisation from our anchorage.

Early morning at Russell Island

I was so happy with this place I used the opportunity of a quiet morning to debut my drone.  I still haven't found the courage to launch it while we're underway, but this was a good start.  I found it extraordinary to see just how beatutiful and isolated this landscape is, since we get a very limited view of it from the water.  It may not be the Barrier Reef, but see if you're not amazed by this location (and please, zoom it out to full screen mode).

It had been suggested we head for Tangalooma Resort for the night, on the western side of Moreton Island.  The reasoning was that it was an acceptebly short distance from there to Mooloolaba for the following day.  So, after a fairly quick breakfast, we completed the remaining 20 miles of channels through the Broadwater followed by a further 20 miles through open water in Moreton Bay.  There was considerable commuter activity around the northern islands of the Broadwater, all based around car and passenger ferries.  The sail through Moreton Bay was, again, lots of fun.  With 20 knots behind us and flat water the boat (literally) sailed itself.

We reached Tangalooma around mid afternoon, and found the anchorage wedged into a narrow stretch of water, maybe 100 meters wide, between the beach and a row of scuttled wrecks.  The wrecks didn't seem to do anything to alleviate the prevailing SSE waves, which caused some pretty pronounced pitching.  That did stop later in the night when the boat reversed direction with the change of tidal flow, to be replaced by water slapping at our stern.  Still, the anchor didn't budge throughout all that and we had a safe, if uncomfortable, night.

Some of the wrecks sunk to create a protective barrier for the anchorage

5 June

The Broadwater

With Greig's departure we're a crew of two from now until we reach Bundaberg.

Dinner last night was ribs and a beer at the Hog's Breath Cafe at the marina.  Another reason I wanted to put the boat in here!  People eat early here.  By 9pm we were the last ones left in the restaurant.

We woke today to a remarkably pleasant morning, with a brilliant, clear sky, a reasonably mild temperature and wind that wasn't too heavy.  What we were hearing from Sydney was a whole different story - extremely cold and stormy.

I'd already decided I wasn't putting to sea today in light of the heavy conditions expected out there.  That view was reinforced when I spoke with the skipper of a commercial whale watching boat who was refusing to go out for the same reasons.  Instead, Gene and I headed up the inland waterway, the Broadwater, that connects Southport with Moreton Bay.  This was something I'd always wanted to do anyway, so the opportunity was a welcome one. 

Some of the modest residences at the southern end of The Broadwater

The Broadwater is a maze of twisting and shallow mangrove lined channels.  I prepared for the day by plotting almost 200 waypoints and a preplanned route into the navigation equipment.  This proved to be invaluable, since I don't think we could have easily found our way through without it.  Even then, we went very close to touching bottom a couple of times - once when I put more faith (incorrectly) in the navigation charts than I did in the physical channel markers and once when we were chatting and I veered ever so slightly off my planned track.

Halfway up the Broadwater - a lovely sunny day

The trip proved to be absolutely delightful.  It still amazes me that while we had a peaceful meander up the Broadwater there were boats offshore, just a few miles from us, bashing themselves up in the big seas.

This warning was posted after we'd almost run aground, for the benefit of southward headed boats!

Towards the end of the day's leg we came upon a small fishing boat who couldn't get their engine started.  Luckily for them our shallow draft let us get in to them and we gave them a tow back to their boat ramp.  I think they owe us a couple of beers.

We've anchored for the night towards the northern end of the Broadwater but still very much in protected water.  In reality, the entire waterway is one big anchorage.  You pretty much just stop and drop the anchor wherever and whenever you choose.  Looking forward to a perfectly still night, out in the middle of nowhere but just a few kilometres from one of Australia's largest cities. 

Dinner tonight will be hamburgers and the first use of my new BBQ.

4 June

Southport

Greig is leaving us today to return to work in Sydney.  We also need a few provisions and I'd like to have a walk around.  So, we move the boat 1 mile down to the Mariner's Cove Marina just opposite the Mirage resort.  We'll stay there overnight before Gene and I head north through the inland waterway linking the Gold Coast with Moreton Bay tomorrow.

Gypsy Princess in her pen at Mariner's Cove

3 June

Iluka to Southport

We're watching the weather forecast very carefully.  A serious blow is being predicted, affecting virtually all of the east coast.  We face the risk that we get caught at sea, unable to reach shelter in any of the coastal rivers or harbours because the heavy weather and big seas close their entrances.  None of us want to be at sea in those conditions.

So, we're leaving the perfect tranquillity of Iluka thinking we can travel the 90 miles to Southport before the wind hits. 

Pre-dawn calm in our overnight anchorage in the Iluka boat harbour

We set out just after sunrise.  It's cold and misty but the next few hours proved to be pretty uneventful.  By around mid afternoon we started to compare our progress against the weather forecast, and switched the engine on to get every last bit of speed we could to beat the coming wind.  We're really not sure what the deadline is - we have the BoM telling us one thing, and the PredictWind App, with its four different weather models, giving us two other sets of predictions.  However, they all seem to agree that something is coming.

The skipper and Gene - looking like we're dressed for an arctic cruise

Sunset was just north of Cape Byron.  Passing this point is a bit of a milestone, being the most easterly point on mainland Australia.  Unfortunately, our view of the lighthouse was degraded from having the sun very low in the sky behind it.

The forecast wind hit us just after we'd rounded Fingal Head, at Tweed Heads, with westerlies blowing at up to 25 knots.  That's not dangerously strong, and there was little wave activity, but it was coming from well forward of us and the boat was overpowered.  We double reefed the main and completely furled the headsail, and proceeded to motor-sail for the remaining three hours to the Southport Seaway.  It was nearing midnight by then.  The ride was slow but not uncomfortable, and I was pretty exhausted.  Greig was better rested and pretty much took care of the boat for me.  I was extremely happy that I had someone as experienced as him to take over for me.

Conditions at the seaway were benign and we anchored just inshore, had some late dinner and went to bed.  The end of a productive day.  I've already decided that we won't push on to Mooloolaba tomorrow.  The weather forecast is looking bad and there's just no reason to expose us to those conditions.

2 June

Coffs Harbour to Iluka

Yesterday afternoon was spent in a pretty relaxed manner, largely hanging around the marina and catching up on some sleep.  I went off to explore the immediate surrounds and, other than stopping to buy some snorkelling gear at the local dive shop, I discovered the local pub offering a great new family care service. Since you can't make the blackboard out from the photo of the pub itself, I attach a blown up image of the details.

The Pier Hotel at Coffs Harbour Jetty and its special service:

Dinner last night was at Latitude 30 restaurant, one of the best in town, which happens to be part owned by the brother in law of my crew Gene.  A wonderful meal.

Gypsy Princess is one of the boats moored here at the Coffs Harbour marina

Today was a fairly uneventful trip from Coffs to Iluka.  Again, good winds and a northerly current let us complete this leg faster than we'd expected, and we were able to cross the bar at Yamba/Iluka a little after 4pm in the last rays of sun.  This stopover was entirely based on Greig's advice, and we found ourselves in an absolute millpond for the evening.  This idea of sleeping in a quiet anchorage somewhere is a whole lot more enjoyable than being at sea, standing watches throughout the night.

Letting the mooring lines go at Coffs Harbour marina

Pulling out of the marina with Iluka ahead of us

We had a little rain throughout the day, just enough to get the decks wet but not washed.  On the upside, when there's rain there's the chance of a rainbow, and we got a few.

Tomorrow morning we're off to Southport - a trip of 90 miles, so we're expecting a long day.

1 June

We've just arrived at the Coffs Harbour Marina after a 23 hour sail from Broughton Island. 

The overnighter at Broughton proved to be a real bonus.  Although the wind was fresh all night, and made its presence known by a constant, dull roar, the anchorage on the northern side of the island was protected from the prevailing seas.  We sat perhaps 100 meters off the beach in 4-5 metres of water, and had really a perfectly smooth night.  We picked the anchor up at first light and, once we got out into open water, made surprisingly good speed for the whole trip. 

Leaving Broughton Island

It ended up being a fantastic day - better, I think, than even the previous day.  By midday we had a perfectly clear sky with considerable warmth from the sun.  Since we'd all rugged up from the morning cold (I had 6 layers of clothing on, including a woollen sailing jumper, two fleecy lined jackets and my ocean jacket), this was rather pleasant. 

I don't think coastal cruising can get better than this - flat seas, clear sky, a solid trailing breeze and an open horizon.  The Gypsy's track showing an amazing turn of speed under sail near Forster.

In all events, it was a pretty uneventful day and night sail.  We're starting to relax into the routine of life on the water.  For me, that's a pretty important first step.  We had dolphins with us almost constantly yesterday morning.  I think there's no-one who doesn't enjoy their company.  To me, they're the ocean equivalent of Labrador dogs, seemingly intent on just having a good time.  I expect this to be common, and will try to get some decent photos in future.

It's easy to get great sunset shots when there's a bush fire about.  The sun setting behind a headland at Crowdy Bay National Park.

Preparing for a night at sea

Our average speed for this leg was so good we ended up arriving at Coffs Harbour hours before we'd expected, and we were alongside in the faintest first light of day.  A little tired, but very happy.  You rarely get an overnight passage as fast and comfortable as the one we've just had.  So now, we're planning a busy day of doing nothing, topping up our diesel and writing a blog.  Dinner tonight will be at a local restaurant boasting an excellent reputation.  Two days down, lots more to go.



Technical stuff

Winds at Broughton Is were around 20 knots all night, but holding was excellent in 4-5 metres of water.  We didn't drag an inch and I felt completely confident in our position.

We picked the anchor up a little after 7am and, once we got out into open water, made 7-8 knots, peaking occasionally at 10, in a 20-25 knot SW wind with seas up to about 2 meters.  The wind moderated a little to under 15 knots but returned after sunset to about 17 knots and stayed there all night.  Amazingly, the seas just kept getting smoother.  No complaints from any of us on board!

Total distance covered was 149 miles in just under 23 hours, averaging 6.5 knots.

The engine was on for about 2.5 hours, for manoeuvring at the start and end of the passage and for a bit in the middle when the wind dropped.  This was a welcome change from the previous day when the engine was running for the bulk of the time.  We'll top the tank up today in light of the very light winds being forecast over the next few days.  The Gypsy is about to become a power boat.

30 May 2019

Today I set sail for the Barrier Reef on my yacht, Gypsy Princess.  Deep down, I'm incredibly happy.  On the surface I think I'm just relieved and quite a bit tired.  I'll run through the huge jobs list I've completed in a future post.  Just for now, this post will be short.

The last few days have seen some bad weather along the Australian east coast.  Winds have been gusting over 30 knots, with quite a bit of north in them.  Not that I was ready, or even wanting, to go earlier but bashing into those conditions would have been slow and uncomfortable.  However, the BoM was saying today would be good, so today it was going to be.

I stayed on board last night and kept waking to the sound of the same, wild wind whistling through the marina.  In my semi conscious state I was nervous.  However the pre-set alarm went off at 3.30 to the sound of ... silence.  The winds had calmed and moved around to the south west, where they stayed all day.  My crew, Greig and Gene, arrived at 4am and within 20 minutes we were off the marina and heading north.

I can only say that the day gave us a glorious sail up the coast.  Wind and current were both behind us, and the seas were comfortable.  After a cold start we had a perfectly clear day, with only the plume from a bush fire burnoff visible in the distant south, presumably somewhere in Sydney.

First day of this cruise also gave us our first dolphin and multiple whale sightings.  Most remarkably, we had two whales surface immediately beside the boat, about 15 feet off, as we were making 7 knots near Port Stephens.  I've seen lots of whales, but none so close.  Now, I won't deny their majesty, but I'd be a whole lot happier if these 30 ton animals decided to surface a little further away from my boat than 15 feet!

We covered about 80 miles today, averaging close to 6 knots.  We've anchored for the night at Broughton Island, about 10 miles north east of Port Stephens.  Since we arrived here just after dark, I haven't seen any of the island, so I'm looking forward to seeing it in the morning.  The wind is brisk as I write, probably close to 20 knots, but the water is pretty flat and I feel quite safe.  All in all, a great way to start this cruise.

I must say that the boat is behaving wonderfully.  She's simply lapping up the winds of up to 25 knots and giving us a beautifully smooth ride.  I'm very proud of her.

Tomorrow might be a longish stretch straight through to Coffs Harbour.  There's the threat of a decent blow coming through on Saturday, so we want to be somewhere secure.  We'll see what happens in the morning.

Finally, my thanks to everyone who's sent their good wishes.  I really appreciate your thoughts.

First sunrise of the cruise, off the Central Coast