Gypsy Cruising

15 - 16 June

Lady Musgrave Island

[I realise I've been a little quiet on the posting front.  I've actually been spending most of my free time, as Spencer will attest, in processing and editing video material from Lady Musgrave.  I wanted to do justice to our visit, since we both had an extraordinary couple of days at that wonderful island.  I hope you enjoy the post.]

I first learnt of Lady Musgrave Island in 1986.  Way back then, still just 21 years old, I attended a series of lectures on cruising as part of preparations for my first bareboat charter to the Whitsunday Passage.  At the time, and ever since, Lady Musgrave has represented to me everything that this cruising dream is all about.  It's a stunning coral cay, an island built from the sea by coral polyps.  It is flat, covered by a treed canopy, ringed with a sandy beach and surrounded by a large coral lagoon.  Although it's in deep water 30 miles off the coast, the lagoon offers boats an anchorage in perfect, clear water only seven meters deep.  It is home to coral reefs, tropical fish and turtles.

Of all the Barrier Reef islands, only Lady Elliot is more southerly.  Lady Musgrave, then, is the welcomer, the island gem that gives a glimpse of what the passage north has in store for the cruising sailor.  This visit was one of the important milestones of the cruise.

The day started at around 3.45am, with the alarm getting the two of us up for the day's 50 mile passage.  We were out of Bundaberg Marina a few minutes after 4.  Coincidentally, one of Spencer's friends from last night, Trent, was heading out at the same time for a day's fishing at Lady Elliot Island.  There was little wind, so no chance for a sail.  Spencer went back to bed pretty much immediately after we cleared the river entrance.

The morning was notable for one outstanding event.  Around midday I decided to try one of the trolling lines I'd bought for the trip.  Having not caught a fish since I was about 10 years old, this was something of a novelty for me.  Within two minutes of the lure hitting the water we'd hooked a fish - a very healthy looking blue fin tuna.  Neither of us actually knew it was a blue fin tuna, since it didn't appear in our limited books on the subject.  However the internet came through with a confirmation.  I bled it, filleted it and had two fantastic pieces of fish meat in the fridge.

First catch of the cruise - a blue fin tuna

We reached the island soon after 2.30, slightly delayed by having to deal with the fish catch along the way.  Entry into the lagoon was straightforward, and there was in fact a mother and baby dolphin swimming around the boat as we made our approach.  Inside we saw a large turtle swim alongside.  Galadriel was already anchored close by, having come out 24 hours previously, and we were lucky to pick up a mooring for the evening.  Dinner tonight was fresh blue fin tuna fillet, tossed in flour, salt and pepper, lightly grilled on the BBQ and served with cous cous, lemon and salad, with a bottle of wine to complement.  Not a bad way to start a cruise.

Lady Musgrave Island from our anchorage inside the lagoon

Boom tent up for the first time - several other boats are also anchored here

We had all day Sunday in the lagoon.  First thing was a quick visit to Galadriel for a chat before they headed off.  Sonia told us about a large rock pool on the inside edge of the lagoon.  She'd swum there yesterday and found turtles and a reef shark.  All were apparently friendly.  Next stop was a trip into the island itself, for a walk around the beach and through its centre.  We found lots of small birds, black noddy terns, mostly nesting in the trees, but some lower down.  They evidently didn't identify us as a threat, because we could get right up next to them.

Spencer posing at the welcome sign to the island

A stretch of beach on Lady Musgrave

There are many pieces of old tree like this one scattered around the island

Me next to a black noddy

 

We took Sonia's advice and dinghied over to the rock pool she'd mentioned.  It was literally like a pool, separated from the rest of the lagoon by a wall of coral and with a clear, sandy bottom inside.  We left the dinghy anchored in deeper water outside, and probably spent an hour swimming there.  The water was much warmer than in the main lagoon because it was a relatively small, enclosed space being heated by the sun.  The fish were extraordinary, having so many species that I recognised from my marine aquarium days.  We found the turtle, and in the main it seemed to tolerate us swimming along with it.  Spencer saw a large groper sitting under a rock ledge.

A photo of the Gypsy's underside, showing winged keel, propeller shaft, rudder and swim ladder

Please view the following videos in full screen mode

Aerial views of Lady Musgrave lagoon and the Gypsy Princess

Video from our snorkel inside the lagoon

Swimming with the wildlife

All in all, this was another day to remember.  Dinner was again tuna fillet, this time also with a dash of gluten free soy sauce (my abject apologies to the owner of this sauce, but I couldn't help myself).