Sunday, 22 September 2019

15 September

Haslewood Island to Long Island

Another lovely morning today.  Since that last day on Hamilton Island, when it was gusting at close to 40 knots, the weather has been essentially Whitsundays perfect. 

This week has disappeared in the blink of an eye.  Tomorrow we head back to Airlie Beach for the end of another leg.  For the final night I wanted to find an anchorage closer to port, and that gave me a chance I’d been looking for to return to Long Island.  This is another place I haven’t visited in over 20 years – I guess it’s not one of those iconic Whitsundays locations.  It was once a key stop for bareboaters in the days when all the charter companies were based nearby in Shute Harbour.  The island also hosted a popular under-35s resort that went by many names during the time I knew it – Whitsunday 100, Club Crocodile, Con Tiki, Long Island.  Of course it’s closed now.  My guess is that a resort that caters to increasingly more budget markets eventually runs out of enough cash to renew its infrastructure and simply dies in a downwards revenue spiral.

We were presented with the opportunity of sailing from the outer, most eastern anchorage to one of the innermost islands, with the apparent wind largely on our beam, in flat water and under a clear sky.  I’d been hoping for such conditions especially to give Mike a great sail.  We took the long, eastern way around Haslewood and then south of Hamilton Island to minimise the time the engine was running, and took around five hours to cover the 25 miles involved. 

I’ll mention here a sight that provided another sad indication of the level of skill of some bareboaters (bear in mind I didn’t say all bareboaters).  When we came around Haslewood we could just make out what appeared to be the stern of a large catamaran, many miles ahead of us.  We were doing maybe 6 knots in 10-12 knots of true wind, but we seemed to be coming up very quickly on the cat.  In the course of traversing the southern shore of Whitsunday Island we caught, passed and left it miles in our wake, until we could hardly see it.  They simply didn’t know the most basic principles of sail.  Our sails were trimmed for a very easy beam reach while theirs were hard on.  Maybe they thought sheets are like a throttle – the more they’re wound on the faster you go.  Even the sight of us surging past them didn’t seem to make them think something was wrong.  There’ll be many people who accuse me of being rude and picky but it’s tragic that, like so much else, attention to the skills of seamanship are so readily dismissed simply to get guests out onto boats and to collect their money.  In a broader assessment, I’d argue this is a foundational cause of what one of the Hammo staff described to me as the not uncommon occurrence of bareboats being put up onto reefs. 

OK, in the words of Forrest Gump, that’s all I have to say about that (hope I never end up on a reef now!)

We let go the anchor, snugged well up into the surrounding reef in Happy Bay, and Mike and I went ashore to have a quick look around the shuttered resort.  Dinner tonight was a BBQ accompanied by a sparkling shiraz and, for the first time I think on the entire cruise, we ate dinner up on deck.

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