Gypsy Cruising

17 August

Orpheus Island to Hinchinbrook Island

I think most cruising sailors harbour some sort of secret South Seas fantasy, involving perfect, azure waters (not too far distant please) and anchorages in bays lorded over by imposing, rain forest clad jagged peaks.  I’ve never been to such places.  I guess not until today.  Surprisingly enough, off the east Australian coast.

We all set off together with the intention of stopping quickly at Zoe Bay, on the east coast of Hinchinbrook Island, before travelling further up Hinchinbrook and staying the night just around its north east corner.  Zoe Bay is fully east facing and is exposed to the prevailing wind and swell, making it uncomfortable and unsuitable for an overnight anchorage.

Nirvana's Kitchen leading the fleet out in the early morning sun

Coming up to Hinchinbrook Island under spinnaker

The Gypsy makes quite a sight under spinnaker - Galadriel is also seen in the above shot

Hinchinbrook is quite a large island, being around 19 miles long and with an area of about 400 square kilometres.  Its highest peak is 1100 metres above sea level.  It once supported a small "eco" resort, right on the northern end on Cape Richards.  That was destroyed in 2010 by storms and perhaps declining fortunes, so the island now is completely free of development and is a nature wonderland. 

Leon has an out of print guidebook to cruising the north Queensland coast, “Going Troppo”.  It describes Zoe Bay as one of the most beautiful places on Australia’s east coast.  I’m cautious about such claims because it’s all too easy to make them simply for the sake of dramatic effect.  In this case it might just have something.  No point describing further – just look at the photos.

Entering Zoe Bay

Surely a match for any south sea island paradise - below are James, Nirvana, Leon, Sonia and David

We tackled a short walk from the beach up to some fresh water pools and a waterfall.  This passed an occupied camp site just up from the beach, which we wondered about given the real risk of crocodiles around here.  In fact the idea of crocs got us all a little wary about our surroundings (except Leon, who thinks crocs are actually rather comical).  In the event, we didn’t see any.

The bush is really very rain foresty now, quite different to what we’re used to further south.  The track wasn’t long and we came to the waterfall easily enough.  I admit that it brought somewhat of a grin to my face, because it struck me that a Hollywood set designer couldn’t do a more perfect job of creating the perfect bush swimming hole.  There were even tame fish in the pool that James hand fed with pieces of muesli bar.

James leading the walk through the very lush forest

Our first view of the waterfall and fresh water pool 

This is what you can do with a very slow shutter speed

James feeding the fish

Just lovely!

Next the predictable group-behind-the-sign shot, although this time we got two signs.

Zoe Bay might be an OK overnight anchorage in some highly unusual calm or westerly conditions, but not so today with the prevailing sou-easters.  So we made Cape Richards by mid afternoon.  From here we could finally see Dunk Island.  That ultimate milestone will be reached tomorrow.